Windows has that button, but only if you right-click the drive in file explorer and select “eject”. The dialog is very similar, but has the option to continue anyways. That option doesn’t appear when ejecting from the taskbar.

Which is weird, because it means that Microsoft went out of their way to make two different, almost identical dialogs. And they made the better one harder to reach.

My university used Artemis to do basically what you’re describing. Files are uploaded via git. But it seems like selfhosting would be a lot of work.

Hard to tell, a couple of the other components also look dirty. Are they just dusty, or is there some residue from a blown-up part?

What device are we looking at? I’m guessing some kind of power supply? What is the failure mode You’re trying to fix?

I’ve been very happy with my Feedback Sports Pro Mechanic repair stand. It’s not the cheapest, but we’ll worth it. Very stable and the ratcheting clamp makes adjusting for different tube sizes very easy.

He proposes the cloud be owned by communities, so in a way by everyone. That’s not the same everything being owned by private companies.

I mean, I don’t like AI. But leaving in debugging messages can easily happen without AI, too.

I think most of us are pretty damn average.

That’s true. Like, by definition.

This seems to be an engineering sample CPU. Since these are pre-production, that could mean it’s basically a fully functional CPU. It could also have serious issues.

Found it!

Alt text:

ISO 8601 was published on 06/05/88 and most recently amended on 12/01/04.

From the IRF1404Z data sheet:

Calculated continuous current based on maximum allowable junction temperature. Bond wire current limit is 120A. Note that current limitations arising from heating of the device leads may occur with some lead mounting arrangements.

You need to design the PCB so that the heat from the legs can be properly dissipated, or they won’t live up to the rated current.

Also, traces on a PCB are much thinner than those legs. A trace with the same cross-sectional area would be impractically wide.

Alt-text:

Unfortunately, SawStart is one-use-only. Once started, the blade cannot be stopped, and must be replaced with a fresh blade while the running one is carefully disposed of.

It doesn’t ask you to subtract the numbers, but to calculate the distance (i.e. the absolute value of the subtraction). So depending on which numbers are paired up, the sign of the pair can be different.

I think this might just be a particularly uncooperative tire, but it should work if you wrestle it on there. Maybe post a picture of the whole wheel, there might be something here I’m missing.

Alt text:

The zoo takes special care to keep kings separated from opposite-color pieces as part of their conservation program to prevent mating in captivity.

Unpopular opinion: The license makes sense and should have been enforced from the start.

The Benchy is a benchmarking tool, not just visually but there are also various features you can measure and check against the dimensions on the website. But that doesn’t work if the model you’re printing has been modified.

If it looks like a beachy, it should have been printed from the original model, so it’s always comparable. Preventing derivatives means you can be sure of that, even if it came on the included SD card with your printer. Otherwise, manufacturers could include a modified model that makes their printers look better than they are.

Every single freewheel does this, and it’s not an issue.

The freewheel bearings don’t line up exactly with the wheel bearings. This is always the case to some degree, because the interface between freewheel and hub is a non-precision thread.

It might look weird when freewheeling, but once you put use the pedals, freewheel and hub are rotating together, negating this wobble.

If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.

eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.

For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).

That’s probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you’re redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.

It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.

Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).