• Labototmized@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    You should be able to undo it and make sure nothing is cracked or broken first. Then you can add teflon tape to the exposed threads. Two to three wraps in clockwise direction. Then reassemble making sure the connection isn’t too tight. Hand tight plus maybe a quarter turn should be good. Check in a couple days or so and make sure it isn’t leaking and still tight and you should be good!

      • papalonian@lemmy.world
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        6 days ago

        Those harder plastic tubes are usually pretty telling when they’ve reached the end of their service days. If the end of the tube (where it meets with the white PVC pipes) is not all janky and crumbling, and there’s no obvious leaks coming from the tube when water is going through it, you’ll probably be ok!

        Edit: good job for trying to do this one on your own! It probably seems daunting, but I’m sure you can figure it out. 👍🏾

  • too_high_for_this@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    I think all the other comments are making it too complicated.

    Completely unscrew the collar where the hose meets the pipe.

    Position the hose so that about 1" / 2.5 cm is inside the pipe.

    Screw the collar back on. The pipe should tighten onto the hose. Give it a tug to make sure it’s secure.

  • catchy_name@feddit.it
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    6 days ago

    Bonus tip for anyone diy-ing plumbing: Chances are decent that you won’t get it all 100 percent right the first time. Pick up a water sensor for $20 at the hardware store and put it under your work when done. That way if something leaks you’ll know right away instead of when mold and water damage happen.

  • warbond@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    It looks like the gray hose has a lip on it that is supposed to be captured by that white “collar” or union nut that screws into the rest of the PVC piping.

    Ideally in that sort of setup you could unscrew the white union nut and slide it up the gray discharge hose without any issues. Try unscrewing the union nut and look at how it’s supposed to interact with the hose and the rest of the piping, that should give you a better idea of what needs to happen next.

      • warbond@lemmy.world
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        6 days ago

        Okay, so if the gray hose is loose already, pulling it out of the piping and pushing it to the side for a bit might make things a little easier.

        After that, you should be able to unscrew the white collar just like a bottle cap. If it’s too big for your grip, a strap wrench might help.

        Once the collar is off you’ll want to push the gray hose through it like a fat finger through a ring. The gray plastic should be flexible enough to withstand a little deformation; you may need to bend it a little bit to get it to fit through the collar.

        Once the collar is on the hose it should be “captured” by that little lip on the hose, by which I mean it should slide around but it shouldn’t slide right off without a little effort. Screwing the collar on to the piping with the hose through it like that should squeeze the lip of the hose to hold it in place.

        When tightening the union nut, only tighten to the point that it’s snug. Not because you might break it, but because anything more than that is probably unnecessary. After that you should keep an eye on it at least during the next drain cycle and check to make sure nothing is vibrating or pulling loose.

        Does that help?

    • Elting@piefed.social
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      6 days ago

      Yeah, from this angle it looks like the hose might not be seated all the way into the collar.

  • N0t_5ure@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    So, typically the washing machine drain hose is just pushed into the drain in the laundry room, and often there is a clip to hold it curved so that it falls in place. They’re generally not sealed into place. Sometimes the end is ribbed to hold it into place.

    In your case, it appears that you have the ribbed end type that someone put into a standard drain fitting that uses a compression ring/collar to seal. Your hose end technically wasn’t made to fit that, but it doesn’t matter, because you just shove it in and it wedges in place. The problems come when vibrations due to the inherent load imbalance from washing clothes rocks the washing machine, wiggling the hose, and over time causing it to come loose.

    In your case, you just shoved the hose back in, which is reasonable and what most people would do. While this may work indefinitely, there is also a possibility that it could work loose. To prevent this, you might change the hose end fitting to more securely lock into place, use silicone caulk to glue it into place, or, if it is reasonably secure as is, simply use some zip ties to tie the grey washing machine hose to something like the black line coming in above. That way, when the machine vibrates, the pull on the jiggling hose doesn’t reach the hose end connection and loosen it.

  • Ismay@programming.dev
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    6 days ago

    Not really made to be fit, more like pushed in.

    But if you had water come out of it, I would check if the pipe is not clogged (probably partially). Could explain the flow back.

      • Grumpydaddy@lemmy.world
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        6 days ago

        is the gray hose just pushed into the white pipe or is it mechanically fastened somehow? The white pipe has a compression fitting at it’s end where the gray pipe goes in. That connection is really meant to accept another white pipe of the same diameter. I’m betting that the connection isn’t really mechanically connected. The gray pipe is just loosely sitting inside the white pipe.

          • Grumpydaddy@lemmy.world
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            6 days ago

            A third option would be to take off the unused branch on the right side and move it over to the left and figure out a way to fasten the pipe using that fitting. It looks like it ends in a barb connector. You could then fit the gray hose over the barb and fasten it with a hose clamp, or find a suitable flexible rubber coupler

            • Grumpydaddy@lemmy.world
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              6 days ago

              None of these options are actually how you are supposed to hook up a washer drain but to do it right would involve hiring a plumber, opening walls, and routing the drain lines correctly. Good luck with your project, and remember, Youtube is your friend. A basic understanding of PVC pipe, how compression fittings work, how flexible rubber fittings work, and how washer drains are typically installed will go a long way towards helping you fix your particular issue.

              Oh, and If the right side isn’t capped in some way then I would do so, any backup in the drain below that connection will push the water out that opening, but that’s a whole separate problem (take off barbed fitting, add PVC pipe and cap).

  • VocationConfining@piefed.social
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    6 days ago

    While you’re down there, remove the trap (the U-shaped piece) and make sure there’s not a lot of debris holding stuff up. There’s a lot of pipes flowing into that single trap!

    Put a bucket underneath, unscrew both sides, dump the water/gunk/etc that’s in there. Maybe rinse it out (into the bucket that you keep under the sink or in a different sink; remember, you took the pipe out!). Then screw it back in, add water to fill the trap back up, and check for leaks.

    Another posted mentioned Teflon tape, which is often your friend unless there is a compression fitting. These looks like slanted rings that will squeeze against the pipe and seal just fine. These are common in p-traps, but likely not present by the gray hose.